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Travelling across the Sudety Mts.

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Rocks of the giants

Posted by wcieniu on 29/05/2012
Posted in: Trips, Wysoki Jesionik. Tagged: Czech, hike, Hruby, Jesenik, lift, Ramzova, rocks, Serak. Leave a Comment

Ramzova – green trail – Obri skaly (1088 m) – blue trail – Serak (1352 m) – red trail – Ramzova. 12 km. Total ascent / descent: 650 m. To visit Keprnik you have to add 3.5 km and 100 m of ascent / descent.

We start our walk in Ramzova – a small Czech ski resort at the foot of the Hruby Jesenik. There are two car parks – one, near the main road Branna – Jesenik (larger and paid) and the second – up the narrow street going from the site of the first car park to the square in front of the lower station of the chairlift to Serak. At the upper car park we find a signpost with information on local tourist and bike trails.

Ramzova - lanovka Ramzova

Ramzova – surrounded by the Gory Zlote (Rychleby)

We choose the green trail that leads us straight ahead, along garages and enters the forest. It runs down the side valley to a wooden shelter, then turns right onto a traverse. From clearings we have views of the southern, Czech part of the Gory Zlote with Smrek (1115 ma.s.l.) – the highest in the whole range.

Nad Ramzovą Przy szlaku zielonym na Obri Skaly

Smrek massif seen from the green trail

The vista turns right again but the green trail guides us straight ahead, down the steep slope to the valley of the Vrazedny stream (730 m). We cross the rapid brook by the stone dam.

Vrażdeny potok Tama na Vrażdenym potoku

Vrazedny stream

At the next shelter the trail turns right onto a vista running up the valley of the stream. The road closes to the stream flowing down with scenic cascades in the stone river bed.

Kaskady na Vrażdenym potoku Przepust na Vrażdenym potoku

Road along the Vrazedny stream / One of culverts in the valley

Behind the footbridge we find the next culvert and shelter, and up the valley. Near the next dam it is worth to leave the road and walk down to the bed of the stream to see scenic rocks on slopes of the valley – a herald of the mighty Obri skaly.

Skały nad Vrażdenym potokiem Nad doliną Vrażdenego potoku

Rocks over the Vrazedny stream

The vista becomes a path, and the ascent is more steep. The valley narrows, in a dense wood we cross the brook and climb onto the nearby asphalt road from Ramzova.

Kładka na Vrażdenym potoku Szlak rowerowy pod Mracną horą

Footbridge on the Vrazedny stream / Bike road under Mracna hora

The green trail runs left with the vista to the crossroads under Obri skaly (930 m), where we meet the blue trail from Horni Lipova and where we can enjoy a nice panorama of the Gory Zlote and the Snieznik Massif.

Rozdroże pod Obrimi skalami Podejście na Obri skaly

Crossroads under Obri skaly / Smrek seen from the path to Obri skaly

Both trails starts a toilsome ascent to Obri skaly. As we the altitude rises – wide vistas open behind us.

Widoki z podejścia na Obri skaly Dolne partie Obrich Skal

View from the ascent to Obri skaly

Finally, when we are getting tired the path suddenly turns left and after 150 metres reaches the upper edge of Obri skaly. Here we have another wooden shelter and crossroads with the bike trail.

Przy Obrich Skalach Obri Skaly

Upper parts of Obri skaly

Now, it its worth to find old markings of the scenic path (on the left side of the last of rocks) to make a short stroll (watch your steps and keep to the path) along the vast formation of Obri skaly with nice panoramas of the Snieznik Massif, Rychleby, the Biala valley with Jesenik spa resort, and Serak, of course.

Ścieżka przez Obri Skaly Grań Obrich skal

Obri skaly – Gory Zlote and Snieznik on the horizon

Masyw Śnieżnika z Obrich skal Mracna hora z Obrich skal

The Snieznik Massif seen from Obri skaly / Mracna hora seen from Obri skaly

Punkt widokowy na Obrich skalach Góry Złote z Obrich skal

Scenic point on one of the rocks

We have to return to the crossroads over Obri skaly via the same rocky path. From Obri skaly we ascend to Serak by the blue trail. On the line of the wood we can turn around to enjoy once again the beautiful scenery. The blue trail climbs through the spruce wood, passing by a lone rock with benches below.

Okolice Obrich skal Skałka pod Szerakiem

Blue trail over Obri skaly / Lone rock near the path to Serak

The tiresome ascend ends at the junction with the yellow trail. We are only few hundred metres away from the refuge on Serak.

Rozdroże pod Szerakiem Przy chacie Jiriho

Crossing near Serak / At the refuge on Serak

We rest on benches near the tourist hut, hanging over the deep hollow of Jesenik surrounded by the Rychleby, the Opava Mts. and the Orlik ridge in the Hruby Jesenik. Then, you may ring the bell in a stone belfry standing in the shadow of Keprnik (from which slope the TV tower on Praded sticks out)

Crossroads on Serak Gory Zlote - view from Serak

On Serak / Rychleby seen from Serak

Widok spod chaty Jiriho Near tourist hut on Serak

The hollow of Jesenik seen from the refuge on Serak / Keprnik and belfry on Serak

From the tourist hut on Serak we walk with the blue trail straight ahead to the crossroads on the southern slope. If you would like to go to Keprnik (description and pictures from the summit) you should walk left with the red trail leading up the dark wood to the top of Keprnik (then back the same way).

View from Keprnik to Serak Rocks on Keprnik

Ascent from Serak to Keprnik / Top of Keprnik

The red trail runs from Serak down to Ramzova via the stony Horse Path. This route was used in the past for beer supply to the hut on Serak.

Skały przy szlaku czerwonym Konska vyhlidka

Rocks near the descent to Cernava / So-called “Horse View”

The upper part of the Horse Path is very rocky.

Zejście z Szeraka na Czernavę Vozka spod Szeraka

At the red trail to Ramzova

From the next part we have vistas of the deep, wild valley of the Klepacsky stream with Keprnik and Vozka dominating the other side of the valley.

Keprnik i Vozka znad Czernawy Widok w dolinę Klepacskiego potoku

Scenery of the Klepacsky stream valley

Widok na Keprnik Masyw Śnieżnika znad Czernavy

Red trail over Cernava

Suddenly the terrain flattens and the path leaves the spruce forest arriving in the clearing under Cervana with the middle station of the chairlift to Serak.

Rozdroże nad Czernavą Mraczna hora z Czernavy

Crossroads on Cernava / Middle station of the chairlift to Serak

The clearing provides us with vistas of the Serak shoulder – Mracna hora (Dark Mountain) as well as Ramzova surrounded by the Rychleby.

Widok z Czernavy Mraczna hora

Rychleby – view from Cernava / Mracna hora seen from Cernava

46) Mraczna hora z Czernavy

The last section of the red trail is not quite interesting (so we can use the chairlift to get to Ramzova) – the vista goes down bending through dense woods with few panoramas.

Widoki z zejścia z Czernavy do Ramzovej Przełęcz Ramzova

Ramzova seen from descent from Cernava / Over the car park in Ramzova

MAP

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TIP: You can combine the walk with visiting nearby (10 km away) caves na Pomezi by the road from Lipova-Lazne to Javornik or the spa part in Jesenik.

From Serak you may also ride down using the chairlift – the upper station is located at the end of the yellow trail (500 metres from the refuge)

Obri skaly

Posted by wcieniu on 28/05/2012
Posted in: Places, Wysoki Jesionik. Tagged: hike, Jesenik, Obri, rocks, scenic, skaly. Leave a Comment

These truly giant (“Obr” means “giant” in Czech, zlobr – zly obr means “bad giant” i.e. ogre) group of rocks, 500 metres long and 16-metre high, lays on northern shoulder of Serak at altitude of 1040-1090 ma.s.l. Fantastically shaped rocks built of slates offer marvellous scenic points with panoramas of the Snieznik Massif, Gory Zlote, the valley of Jesenik and Silesian lowlands on the horizon. The scenic path leads through the stone crest. Unfortunately, the markings are old and unclear (the path starts on the left side of the last rock, situated by the blue trail and goes along the rocky group to the top of one of the lowest rocks). The name of the rocks resembles a local legend about a giant called, rather cutely, Amik. Whether Amik was obr or zlobr - tales have not decided, mentioning only that he often argued with his neighbours.

Grupa Obrich Skal

In Obri skaly

WALK


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Jeskyne na Pomezi

Posted by wcieniu on 28/05/2012
Posted in: Places, Wysoki Jesionik. Tagged: border, cave, Czech, Jesenik, Pomezi. Leave a Comment

The Na Pomezi (i.e. Border) Cave is a solutional cave with speleothems, located by the road from Lipova-Lazne to Vapenna, on slopes of Smrecnik (799 ma.s.l.). An entrance hole is placed on altitude of 575 ma.s.l. Since 1965 the cave has been established a monument of nature. During an exploitation of marble in the nearby Havrankova quarry in years 1934-1949 several caverns were discovered. However, some of them were destroyed due to external factors.  The present Border Cave was discovered on 28th of August, 1949. Since May of 1950 it has been opened for tourists. In 2005 a 2-year renovation of galleries and electric installation ended. They also cleaned some side tunnels from mud.  The total length of discovered tunnels is approx. 1700 m, 390 metres of galleries are accessible for visitors.

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Jeskyne na Pomezi – the largest column

Karstic processes that created the cave, started during tertiary, when the area was located in wet, subtropical climate zone. An erosive force of water enlarged crevices in a limestone bed, flowing deeper and deeper down. During quaternary a frost erosion imposed its destructive power. 70,000 of tourists visit the cave every year. A walk through cave galleries lasts 45 minutes. In the cave there is a permanent temperature of 7.7 centigrade. In the Border Cave no bones of prehistoric animals were found. You can meet here 600 specimens and 11 species of bats, including, for example, greater mouse-eared bat and lesser horseshoe bat.

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Speleothems of the Border Cave

The tour begins in the Ice Hall, then we reach the Hall with Weeping Willow and through the Roman Terms walk to the White Hall – rich in speleothems. Then we access the tallest dome in the cave – the King’s Hall, and passing the Channel Gallery near the Treasury crevice and the Heart of the Cave stalactite (which the visitors are allowed to touch), we go to the Pulpit Hall and, finally, the Muddy Hall, where the sightseeing ends. During the tour we see plenty of larger and smaller speleothems – dripstones and flowstones, stalactites, stalagmites, columns, draperies, ,small lakelets, etc. The free car park is located by the ticket office.

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Stalactite – Heart of the Cave


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Giant pass

Posted by wcieniu on 28/05/2012
Posted in: Karkonosze, Trips. Tagged: border, Czech, dul, Krkonose, louka, meadow, Obri, Pec, rocks, scenic, Snezka, valley. Leave a Comment

Pec pod Snezkou – blue trail – Bila Louka – red trail – Vyrovka – green trail – Richterovy Boudy – red trail – Pec pod Snezkou. Total distance: 15 km. Total ascent/gradient: 700 metres.

Obri sedlo. The broad saddle under the highest top in the Karkonosze – Sniezka/Snezka. The name of the pass in English means “Pass of the Giants”. It has been derived from the old name of the whole mountain range – the Giant Mountains. Below Giant Pass there is the Giant Hole (Obri dul) – the largest cirque in the Karkonosze. From the deep valley the Upa river flows down to a small town Pec pod Snezkou. A population of this locality amounts to 600 people. However, in winter it becomes one of the most visited places in the Czech Republic. In summer local car parks also are not empty. You have to park your car in the town only at designated places (the parking fee in 2012 is 120 KC per car /day). The largest car park is placed near the stone shrine. From the car park walk up the road, along the Upa stream. Go to the circus near the lower station of the chairlift to Snezka and choose the blue tourist trail that crosses the wooden bridge and enters the spruce wood.

Pec pod Snezkou - road to lanovka Pec p/Snezkou - river Upa

The Upa river valley in Pec pod Snezkou / Footbridge over the Upa in Ruzovy Dul

The paved route goes near the river with some cascades built across its bed. Where the Modry potok (Blue Brook) flows into the Upa, also the cascade alleys meet.

Cascades on the Upa river Upa river - cascade

Where two streams meet One of shrines in Obri dul

Spring in the Upa valley / Cascades of the Upa / Small wayside shrine

Pass by the stone shrine and leave the forest for the scenic glade located under Studnicni hora – the second highest mountain of the Karkonosze with the rocky 600-metre high Devil’s Crest overlooking the valley.

In Obri dul Road up the Obri Dul

Glade in Obri dul

Here, you enter the mighty Obri dul, and, of course you have to prepare for its perils in the local bouda, providing tourists with the first beer kit.

Obri dul - view of Studnicni hora Bouda v Obrim dole

Bouda (Tourist hut) in Obri dul

Behind the forest strip another clearing opens with nice vistas of steep slopes of Sniezka and Studnicni hora.

Meadow at the foot of Snezka Studnicni h. - view from the shrine

Clearing near the shrine in Obri dul

Near the stone shrine the asphalted road ends and the blue trail leaves the bottom of the valley starting a toilsome ascent to Kovarna (Smithy Ground) – the old mining terrain with remnants of old shafts and mines.

Shrine in Obri dul Valley of the Upa

Shrine in Obri dul / Over the Upa valley

Go past Kovarna, then the path becomes even more steep. The toilsome walk is eased by picturesque panoramas of rocky cliffs of Studnicni hora and the falls of Upa streaming down from the Karkonosze plateau.

Studnicni h. - view from ascent to Obri sedlo View of Upska jama

Over the Obri dul Studnicni hora

Views from slopes of Snezka

The path winds and meanders, still going up, approaching a deep rocky valley of the Rudny potok (Ore Brook). Pass Vodarna – a small water-pump station built for purposes of the bouda on the top of Snezka. The stone crest of Snezka is seen from here – few hundred metres above the valley.

Vodarna pod Snezkou Rudny potok

Vodarna / Rudny potok

It is worth to turn around to enjoy a view of the Upa valley. Far off, at the foot of the mountain you can see buildings in Obri dul, you passed an hour or more before.

Panorama from Vodarna Valley of the Rudny

Panorama from the valley of the Rudny potok

After a short rest you have to resume the ascent, passing by a small cross commemorating the victim of the avalanche. Then, you enter the realm of dwarf mountain pines making vistas larger and larger.

On slopes of snezka Crest below Snezka

Steep southern shoulder of Snezka – view from Dixuv kriz

Above Dixuv kriz Upper parts of the Upa valley

Looking into the Upa valley

The terrain flattens and fields of the dwarf mountain pine become thin. It means that you have almost reached the altitude of 1400 ma.s.l. – the level of Bila Louka.

Dolina Upy Upper parts of Upska jama

Blue trail near Obri sedlo / Falls of the Upa

Studniczni hora from the area of Obri sedlo Snezka - view from the blue trail

Studnicni hora – view from the area of Obri sedlo / Snezka from the path under Obri sedlo

Few hundred metres later you are on Obri sedlo with the hostel Slaski Dom (Silesian House) – on the Polish side of the state boundary. Near the refuge, on the Czech side there is a scenic platform overlooking Obri dul. You can also watch a tapeworm of people climbing up rocky slopes of Sniezka throughout all months of summer season.

Obri sedlo Snezka - view from Obri sedlo

Pass under Sniezka (Obri sedlo) / Sniezka – view from the saddle

On the pass turn left with the blue trail, leaving the main paved road and going just over the upper edge of Upska jama. From there you can still enjoy nice vistas of Studnicni hora and Snezka.

Studnicni hora Path to Snezka

Bez nazwy Path to Lucni bouda

At the blue trail to Bila Louka

Pass by fields of dwarf mountain pines. Then an open tundra starts with small lakelets on the peatbog ground.

Fields of dwarf mountain pine Top of Snezka

Snezka – view from the edge of Bila Louka

Behind wooden footbridges across the marshes enter Bila Louka with the tourist hostel – Lucni bouda.

Path to Bila louka Lucni bouda

Bila Louka

Now, you can rest near the hostel and the White Elbe stream in the landscape of the Sudetian “tundra”.

Bile Labe White Elbe

Looking eastwards from Lucni bouda – Snezka / Bile Labe & Studnicni hora

At the hostel  choose the red trail, going left, up the asphalt road onto a small pass between Studnicni and Lucni hora.

Above Bila louka Peat bog on Bila Louka

At the red trail in Bila Louka

Enjoy vistas of Snezka before the mountain disappears behind the ridge of Studnicni hora.

Snezka above the plateau Snezka from Lucni hora

Snezka overlooking Bila Louka

On the pass there is a stone shrine with plaques commemorating victims of the mountains.

Pamatnik obetem hor Memorial to victims of mountains

Shrine on the pass under Studnicni hora

Cross the saddle (highest point in the trail – approx. 1510 ma.s.l.), starting a descent down the slope of Lucni hora. Even though the slope appears to be southern, the altitude and the lay of the land result in long lingering of snow, usually to late summer.

Snowy road to Bila louka Studnicni hora in late May

Late May under Lucni hora

Slopes of Lucni hora Spring ice above Vyrovka

Top of Lucni hora – 3rd highest peak in the Karkonosze / Ice landscape

Apart from spring or summer snow, you can also admire vistas of the Upa valley with Studnicni hora, Ruzova hora and Cerna hora. When weather is favourable, on the horizon you can see also other ranges of the central and eastern Sudety with Gory Sowie, Gory Stolowe, Orlickie and the Snieznik Massif.

Ruzova hora - from slopes of Lucni h. Upa valley - from Lucni hora

Panorama from the descent of Vyrovka – Studnicni h., Ruzova h., Cerna h.

Just over the hostel Vyrovka the crest of Lucni hora ends. A scenic platform opens on your right hand (with wooden benches few metres from the main road) with a marvellous vista of Sedmidoli and surrounding ridges.

Vyhlidka near Vyrovka Wielki Szyszak - view from area of Vyrovka

Scenic platform near Vyrovka overlooking Sedmidoli

Pass by the scenic platform, reaching Vyrovka – a mountain hostel under Zadni Planina (1422 m a.s.l.).

Ascent to Luczni hora Vyrovka

Over Vyrovka / Vyrovka and Zadnia Planina

In front of the hostel, at the wooden signpost turn left into the green trail, descending steeply down the supply road from Pec pod Snezkou. Over spruce trees you see the massif of Cerna hora and Slatinna stran with chalets and huts high on slopes.

Cerna hora - view from Vyrovka Road to Richterovy Boudy

Vistas from the green trail near Vyrovka

After the toilsome descent reach a glade with the tourist hotel Richterova bouda. At benches near the hotel turn left into the red trail that leaves the asphalt road and goes along the narrow path amidst spruces.

Richterovy Boudy Red trail to Pec p/Snezkou

Richterovy Boudy /  Ruzova hora – view from the red trail

The red trail crosses the diagonal road and starts to descend. From among spruces picturesque vistas open.

Studnicni h. & Snezka Snezka from Lesni hora

Studnicni hora and Snezka seen from the red trail

Down, in the valley of Modry dul there is a small settlement founded in the 16th century. Nowadays, buildings scattered across green meadows serve as guest houses.

Modry Dul from Lesni hora Above Modry Dul

Over Modry dul

The red trail reaches the asphalt road. It is worth to turn here going 200 metres left with the yellow trail to the edge of the meadow in Modry dul (Blue valley) to rest in scenic surroundings.

Modry Dul (Blue Valley) Studnicni hora - view from Modry Dul

In Modry dul

After the rest go back to the crossroads with the red trail and resume the journey down the asphalt vista, to Pec pod Snezkou (approx. 2 km of walk through the dense forest). The red trail leads you straight to the main car park in Pec where you started the hike.

Upa valley Wood above Pec p/Snezkou

The Upa valley – view from the red trail / “Sculpture” near the red trail

MAP OF THE ROUTE

in google maps

map of the area:

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Bohemian Wonder

Posted by wcieniu on 24/05/2012
Posted in: Trips, Wysoki Jesionik. Tagged: Czech, Dlouhe, hike, Jesenik, reservoir, scenic, strane. Leave a Comment

Kouty nad Desnou - Mravenecnik - Dlouhe Strane (and back again) 9 km. Total ascent/descent: 300 m

I do not suggest to walk via an asphalt road from Kouty to the upper reservoir of the Dlouhe Strane hydro power plant. Since 2011 you are able to shorten a distance between Kouty and the pumped-storage wonder of the Czech Republic (as the plant reservoir beat surprisingly the Hradcany castle in Prague in the Czech poll competition in 2005) using a chair lift that takes you from Kouty (a large, free car park near the station) to Medvedi hora (Bear Peak). Sitting on the double lift chair you can enjoy a panorama of the deep Desna valley in a shadow of Jeleni stran (1236 m a.s.l.) with the Snieznik Massif on the horizon.

Koutecky las Chair lift Kouty - Medvedi hora 

1) Forest near the lower station of the chairlift is full of figures of dwarfs

2) Panorama from the chairlift over Kouty n/Desnou

The chairlift climbs amidst dense spruce woods up the slopes of Medvedi hora. From the upper station of the lift you can stroll to the top of Dlouhe Strane by an asphalt road and at summer weekends you can also go there by bus stopping at the upper station. But what is a purpose to ride in the mountains when you may use your own foot. From the upper station we walk up the above-mentioned road (beware of the buses because the road is quite narrow) to the crossroads near wind turbines standing out from the forest.

Lanovka - Kouty nad Desnou Road to Dlouhe strane

3) Chairlift to Medvedi hora

4) Asphalt road to the Dlouhe Strane upper reservoir

At the crossroads I propose to you to walk aside from the main road turning left into a vista going along the mountain ridge. We pass by a small building near the turbines and the vista becomes a path that crosses a spruce grove and leads us to the indistinct summit of Medvedi hora with picturesque rocks and a wooden cross. You can rest and relish a  marvellous panorama of the Hruby Jesenik with Vozka, Keprnik, Cervena hora….

Cross on Medvedi hora Keprnik - view from Medvedi hora

5) Cross on Medvedi hora

6) Area of Cervenohorske sedlo as seen from Medvedi hora

… looking father south – the nest of Praded – the highest point in the Hruby Jesenik, easily recognisable  due to the massive TV tower. Finally we see a goal of our short trip – a flatten top of Dlouhe Strane, separated from Medvedi hora by a deep valley of the Borovy stream.

Praded - view from Medvedi hora Dlouhe Strane - view from Medvedi hora

7) Praded – view from Medvedi hora

8) Dlouhe Strane as seen from Medvedi hora

Now, we have to return to the crossroads near wind turbines. Here, we cross the main road and immediately turn left into a straight vista crossing a young spruce wood. The forest ends in a large clearing under Mravenecnik, providing us with a nice panorama of the surrounding area.

Wind turbines on Medvedi hora Hruby Jesenik

9) Wind turbines on Medvedi hora

10) Road from the crossroads to Mravenecnik

At the next crossroads, on the edge of the forest covering upper parts of Mravenecnik slopes we choose a path going left and traversing the slope. Do not bother when the path becomes really narrow and pushes through berry bushes.  Before we enter the spruce wood we look down the wild valley of the Borovy stream with the rocky top Medvedi hora where we stood few minutes ago.

Crossroads under Mravenecnik On slopes of Mravenecnik

11) Vozka, Keprnik, Cervena hora, Vyrovka & Jezernik seen from the clearing under Mravenecnik

12) The Borovy stream valley

The afore-mentioned path runs through the coniferous mountain forest to a indistinct saddle between  Mravenecnik and Dlouhe Strane – belonging to the plateau of so-called “Trojhora” (Triple Peak). In the pass we turn left into a perpendicular path going to the near top of  Dlouhe Strane.

Dlouhe strane - view from pass under Mravenecnik Mravenecnik

13) Dlouhe Strane seen from the pass under Mravenecnik

14) In the pass under Mravenecnik (in the background)

Beyond a strip of wood we cross a supply road to the upper reservoir and climb up a vast meadow to the highest point of the Dlouhe Strane plateau.  Now, it is time to rest and enjoy a striking view of the lake under the sky as well as surrounding mountains – area of Sumperk,…

Praded - view from Dlouhe Strane View towards Sumperk

15) Upper reservoir of Dlouhe Strane pumped storage plant

16) Dlouhe Strane – panorama SW (Sumperk area)

… Mravenecnik, on the horizon – the Snieznik Massif and Bialskie/Zlote Mountains, closer – Medvedi hora and the ridge of Keprnik…

Snieznik - view from Dlouhe Strane Widok na pasmo Keprnika

17/18 Dlouhe Strane – panorama W / N: Mravenecnik, Susina, Sneznik, Cerna stran, Bialskie / Zlote Mts., Vozka, Keprnik, Cervena hora, Velky Klinovec

… Major Sudetian summit are seen as tips hardly standing out over a flat surface of the reservoir…

The lake Upper reservoir of Dlouhe Strane

19/20 Dlouhe Strane – over the reservoir: Vozka, Keprnik, Maly Ded, Praded, Vysoke Hole

… including the noble head of the Hruby Jesenik “family” – Praded…

Pradziad z górnego zbiornika Dlouhe Strane On Dlouhe Strane

21/22 Praded as seen from Dlouhe Strane

Left to the highest peak of the Hruby Jesenik, in the clearing under the top of Maly Ded the tourist hut – Svycarna looks down the deep valley of the Divoka (Wild) Desna. To the right we see a flatten ridge of Vysoke Hole (High Meadows) with a rocky heap of Petrovy Kameny (Peter’s Stones).

Dul Velkego Deda - view from Dlouhe Strane Vysoke hole - view from Dlouhe Strane

23/24 Dlouhe Strane – panorama E: Maly, Velky Ded, Praded, Petrovy Kamieny, Vysoke Hole, Vresnik, Kamzicnik, Velky Maj, Jeleni hrbet, Bridlicna hora, Skritek pass

From Dlouhe Strane we descend down the main road or go back to the pass under Mravenecnik, continuing straight ahead to the near, flat top of that mountain. The top provides us with more limited panorama than from the neighbouring Dlouhe Strane, though Praded, Vysoke Hole and… Dlouhe Strane, of course, are visible. To descend from Mravenecnik you must find a narrow path going northwards, down a steep slope to the crossroads over the clearing we passed by earlier, walking from Medvedi hora. Then, straight ahead to the asphalt road near the wind turbines and down the road to the chairlift station.

Dlouhe Strane & Praded - view from Mravenecnik Keprnik - view from Mravenecnik

25) Dlouhe Stane, Praded, Vysoke Hole as seen from Mravenecnik

26) Keprnik massif – view from Mravenecnik

MAP of the route:

in google maps

map of the area:

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Iser valley

Posted by wcieniu on 21/05/2012
Posted in: Góry Izerskie, Trips. Tagged: bog, border, boulders, Iser, Izerskie, meadow, peat, scenic, tundra. Leave a Comment

Jakuszyce – red trail – Orle – green trail – Granicznik – red trail – Hala Izerska – bike/blue trail – Rozdroze pod Cicha Rownia – green trail – Jakuszyce. 18 km. Total ascent/gradient: 250 metres

The trip is suitable for bike relax or a medium-distance easy walk. Parking lots in Jakuszyce (small settlement by the Polish-Czech border and main road to Prague) are free in summer. You can also get here from Szklarska Poreba by local train (timetables may vary depending on the season check at: www.przewozyregionalne.pl). Park near the ski run area and choose the red trail (you can also rent a bike in the nearby inn – 30 PLN/day). The route ascends a little bit onto a flatten plateau. Then the “landing strip” starts – 4-km long straight road amidst spruces.

Tor kolei na Jakuszyckiej Polanie "Samolot"

Iser railway (Szklarska Poreba – Harrachov) / “Landing strip”

Finally the straight road ends and the trail descends shortly to the clearing with buildings of settlement Orle. It is a former glazier hamlet with a tourist refuge in the stone building of the previous school. In the past, settlements near Szklarska Poreba (in English: Glazier’s Glade) have been famous from glass works – since the Middle Ages.

Polana Orle Orle - settlement lost in the mountains

Glade and former school in Orle

In Orle, find on the signpost the green trail and follow it across a meadow with a nice view of the small settlement lost in the woods.

W osiedlu Orle Orle

Orle – view from the green trail

Cross a flatten ridge of Granicznik (876 m)  starting to descend steeply into the Iser valley.  On your way pass by a lone rock just by the path.

Lone rock on Granicznik (870 m) St. John of Nepomuk

Rock under Granicznik / St. John of Nepomuk figure near the Iser

Suddenly the path plunges out from the spruce wood onto the riverbank, near a wooden footbridge leading straight ahead to the Czech side of the Iser valley.

Mostek pod Bukowcem Przejście graniczne na Izerze

Footbridge on the Iser river

On the Czech side that you may freely enter there are some places to rest in the sun and watch the river. Lower than the footbridge the Iser suddenly widens. However, it still has many rocks in its bed.

On the Polish border Pod Bukowcem

Iser river near the footbridge under Bukovec

Here, the Jizerka stream supplies the Iser river.

Izera przy ujściu Jizerki Zbieg Izery i Jizerki

Joint of the Jizerka with the Iser

The Jizerka flows out from picturesque peat bogs, on the plateau above, that you may access up the yellow tourist trail.

Summer in Gory Izerskie Bystra Jizerka

Jizerka stream reaching the Iser river

After the rest go back to the Polish side of the river. Here, a wide vista starts with a bike trail following it, up the river. The bed of the Iser gets narrow and rocks inside much larger.

Nad Izerą At the bicycle trail along Izera

The Iser river north from the footbridge

On the left you see an afforested mount of Bukovec (1000 m), in front of you the High Ridge of the Izerskie Mts. appears.

Nad Izerą  Izera - the border river

Iser river near Orle

The vista and the river turn right, leaving Bukovec behind. Then the road separates from the Iser reaching a perpendicular route from Orle to Hala Izerska.

Valley of the Izera river Nad Izerą

Stone bed of the river / Bend of the Iser river

Turn left, into the red tourist trail going up that road, leading through a spruce marshy wood.

Potok z torfowisk Na skraju Torfowisk Izerskich

Stream in the marshes / Entering Iser peat bogs

While the forest ends you approach again the side of the Iser river.

Na skraju Torfowisk Izerskich Na skraju Izerskich Torfowisk

Iser river at the red trail to Izerska Hala

It is the last meeting with the river which turns left, while the trail follows a straight road to Izerska Hala.

Na skraju Izerskich Torfowisk Przez Izerskie Torfowiska

Farewell to the Iser / Road through Iser peat bogs

Reaching the border of the natural reserve “Peat bogs of the Iser valley”, cross a side brook. On the left you see Jeleni stran (Deer’s Ridge – 1018 m), on the right – a massif of Wysoka Kopa.

Przez Izerskie Torfowiska Przez Izerskie Torfowiska

Jeleni stran and Wysoka Kopa seen from peat bogs

Pass by an information board of the eco-path describing local flora and fauna, entering a lane of bushes on the boggy ground. You can find here a carnivorous sundew.

In the Izera valley Przez Izerskie Torfowiska

In peat bogs of the Iser valley

Behind the hedgerow another meadow opens. It is a sign that you arrive in the Iser Meadow (Hala Izerska).

Hala Izerska Izerska Hala

On the edge of Hala Izerska

Enter the realm of mountain grass, a cold pole of the Sudety, where, even in the very centre of summer, temperatures may surprise you (last year – in the middle of August 2012 when we went to the Iser valley, the temperature in the morning dropped below zero centigrade). The meadow is surrounded by mountain ridges – in front of you you see Jizera (1122 m), Smrek (1124 m), on the right Stog Izerski (1107 m) and the High Ridge of the Izerskie Mts. culminating in Wysoka Kopa (1126 m).

Hala Izerska Hala Izerska

Hala Izerska

In the north, just under the forest line a tourist hut “Chatka Gorzystow” appears. Turning behind, see on the horizon western parts of the Karkonosze Mts.

Hala Izerska Hala Izerska

Panorama of Hala Izerska

Cross another stream in the centre of the meadow, called Jagniecy Potok (Lamb Stream).

Stream in the middle of Izerska Hala Hala Izerska

Old footbridge over the Jagniecy Potok

On both sides of the trail stone remnants of old foundations appear. The settlement in the Izerska meadow depopulated after the World War II. Only the school building remained, serving today as tourist hut (offering in summer season delicious pancakes with local blueberries).

Wysoka Kopa from Izerska Hala Hala Izerska

Remnants of old houses in the Izerska meadow

However, most traces of people who lived here in harsh conditions (temperatures in winter were dropping even below 40 centigrade) disappeared in the mountain grass.

Road through Izerska Hala View of Sredni Grzbiet of Gory Izerskie

Jelenia stran ridge (on the Czech side) seen from Hala Izerska

Crossing a lane of marsh pines approach the crossroads near the tourist hut.

Hala Izerska Hala Izerska

Marsh pines in the Izerska meadow

Here, choose the yellow trail, passing by the building.

Hala Izerska Hala Izerska

Crossroads near the tourist hut

Before entering the wood turn around again to enjoy a scenic landscape. In the forest follow the yellow trail that crosses a red water stream and starts to ascend a stony path.

Hala Izerska Hala Izerska

Before you enter the wood

At the crossroads, on the flattening of the slope leave the yellow trail, turning right into a bike trail. The comfortable road descends slowly to the valley of the Jagniecy Potok which creates a small gorge below.

Jagnięcy Jar Jagnięcy Jar

Jagniecy Potok

Behind the bridge over the brook the bike route approaches a perpendicular road with the blue tourist trail. Follow it left, paying attention to blue markings – cause the trail will turn suddenly right, then left into a narrow path through marshes. Wooden footbridges will help you to get through.

Końska Ścieżka Końska Ścieżka

Blue tourist trail

Upper parts of the trail offer some vistas.

Końska Ścieżka Końska Ścieżka

So-called Horse Path

The ascending path leads you to a much wider Horse Road (Konska Droga) traversing slopes of Wysoka Kopa. The blue trail follows the road eastwards.

Końska Ścieżka Na trawersie Wysokiej Kopy

Konska Droga

From clearings by the Horse Road interesting panoramas of the Iser valley open – from Bukovec to Hala Izerska and Smrek.

View of the Izera valley Na trawersie Wysokiej Kopy

Iser valley seen from the Horse Road

The road passes by a medieval mining area exploiting quartz and gold.

Na trawersie Wysokiej Kopy Na trawersie Wysokiej Kopy

Old mining area on slopes of Wysoka Kopa

The Horse Road reaches a crossroads with an asphalt road from Jakuszyce to the quarry on Izerskie Garby. Wooden benches allow you to rest at the crossroads.

Rozdroże pod Cichą Równią Sniezne Kotly (1500 m) and Szrenica (1364 m) from Cicha Rownia

Crossroads under Cicha Rownia – the Karkonosze in the background

Take the green trail which goes few dozens of metres down the asphalt road, then suddenly turns right on the slope of Cicha Rownia.

Górny Dukt Końskiej Jamy Road to Jakuszyce

Road to Jakuszyce

The vista softly descends slopes of Cicha Rownia (1001 m). After few hundred metres nice vistas of the Izerskie Mts. open on the left.

Górny Dukt Końskiej Jamy Górny Dukt Końskiej Jamy

Wysoka Kopa, Izerskie Garby and Wysoki Kamien seen from the green trail

In front of you, you see the Kamienna river valley just below Jakuszyce…

Valley of the Kamienna river Górny Dukt Końskiej Jamy

Valley of the Kamienna river near Jakuszyce

… as well as Sniezne Kotly and Szrenica in the Karkonosze Mts.

Górny Dukt Końskiej Jamy Górny Dukt Końskiej Jamy

The Karkonosze Mts. seen from the descent to Jakuszyce

When the road becomes somewhat monotonous, it enters a lane of young spruces, descending more quickly. Behind a small brook and a wooden shelter each the crossroads with the red tourist trail, just few metres from the train stop and car park in Jakuszyce where you started the walk.

Górny Dukt Końskiej Jamy Descent to Jakuszyce

Over Jakuszyce

map of the route:

in google maps

map of the area:

Najdete nás na mapy.cz

Kunstat chapel (1037 m)

Posted by wcieniu on 20/05/2012
Posted in: Góry Orlickie i Bystrzyckie, Places. Tagged: bog, chapel, Czech, hory, Orlicke, peat. Leave a Comment

On a broad ridge of the Orlickie Mts, covered by groves of dwarf mountain pine, in a middle of the way from Zdobnica to Kunstat, a former pilgrimage place shines white. It is a round chapel of Visitation of Holy Mary with shingle roof. The chapel was built in 1671 and partly rebuilt in 19th century. The building used to be a very popular place of prayers for residents of the surrounding area, whose ancestors came from Tirol, and for lumberjacks cutting wood in the mountains for mines in Kutna Hora. Festive church fairs gathered thousands of pilgrims.

Kaplica z 1671 r.

Kunsztatska kaple

After World War II the chapel stayed empty and slowly deteriorated. It has been renovated in 2003-2004, including repairement of the shingle roof. Near the chapel the main ridge tourist trail runs, the so-called Jirasek path. Next to the building a concrete bunker rises from fields of dwarf pines – an element of the former Czech “Maginot line” in the Sudety. A large plateau limits a surrounding scenery. However, from the eastern edge of the plateau you can see Bystrzyckie Mts with Zlote Mts. and the Massif of Snieznik on the horizon. In the vicinity of the chapel there is a mountain peat bog with typical flora, e.g. Cotton grass and a carnivorous sundew.

Sacrum & profanum

Area of the Kunstat chapel with Orel in the background


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